Dollar for dollar, no new part takes a bike from dingy to dashing as noticeably as new handlebar tape. But tape is about more than just looks: A well-thought-out handlebar tape installation takes into account the way your hands sit in the drops so the tape lasts longer and provides the cushion and slip-proof grip you need for long days in the saddle.
Exactly which direction to wrap your handlebar tape is sometimes a point of contention amongst cyclists and mechanics. Many tend to follow the rule-of-thumb of “wrap toward the bike,” but the best direction for you can depend on your preferred hand placement.
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“If your thumbs sit more toward the top of the bar, it means your hands roll more to the outside,” explains bar-wrapping expert Mike Spilker, head mechanic of the former Navigators Insurance Pro Cycling Team. “That means you want to wrap away from you.” (That’s clockwise on the right, counterclockwise on the left, so that the natural roll of your hands goes with the tape instead of pulling it loose.) “If your hands roll more to the inside, wrap toward you,” Spilker says. (Or, counterclockwise on the right, clockwise on the left.)
Take a test spin with your hands on the base of the drops to figure out which direction is right for you. Before starting, you’ll need new bar tape of course, scissors, electrical tape, and ideally a workstand and rubber mallet. Then, follow Spilker’s simple steps below on how to wrap handlebar tape.
Prepare Your Bike
Clamp your bike into a workstand, and roll back the brake-hood covers. Peel off your old bar tape, pop out the bar plugs, and scrape off leftover adhesive. Secure any loose cable housing against your bike’s handlebar with electrical tape. Then scrub your grimy mitts before handling your new bar tape.
Pro tip: This is a good opportunity to inspect the condition of your handlebar to see if you need a new one. Note that an aluminum handlebar has a fatigue life. If you ride often, and it’s been a few years, it’s probably a good idea to replace your aluminum handlebar. You might also discover corrosion, and if that’s the case it’s best to replace it.
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Wrap It Right and Tight
Partially peel off the new bar tape’s adhesive backing; you’ll peel off more as you go. With the tape in your chosen direction (clockwise or counterclockwise), start at the end of the bar with the adhesive strip completely touching the edge of the bar, and the rest hanging off. Begin wrapping the handlebars, overlapping a third to half of the tape’s width as you go.
You’ll typically need to keep constant tension on the tape as you wrap—enough to stretch it slightly, but not so much that it tears. However, some handlebar tape manufacturers recommend not stretching the tape; check any instructions that come with the tape you purchase before you start wrapping. When you wrap through the bends of the handlebar, overlap more on the inside of the curve and less on the outside.
It might take a few tries to get the tension and overlap just right. If you notice gaps in the tape, unwrap and try again.
Pro tip: If you’ve had trouble with handlebar tape slipping around in the past, double-check how you’re wrapping the tape and make sure the tape’s adhesive is actually being applied to the handlebar (and not the section of tape next to it). Also, take care to clean the handlebar well beforehand.
Halt for Brake Detail
Most new handlebar tape comes with two short pieces. (If not, cut a 3-inch piece from each roll before you start wrapping.) Use these to cover the brake-lever clamps. Regardless of your initial direction, always wrap the top, flat section of the bar with the tape going over the top of the bar, toward the rider; your hands will naturally work to tighten the tape as you ride. When wrapping to the outside, you need to change direction at the lever clamp. To do that, wrap as close as possible to the clamp, overlapping it by one-half to three-quarters the width of the tape. Then, wrap under the clamp at the front of the bar, up against the inside of the clamp, and over the top of the bar, overlapping the clamp slightly.
Check for gaps in the tape here; if you spot any, re-wrap. Continue wrapping the top half of the bar. When wrapping to the inside, wrap as close to the bottom of the lever clamp as you can before continuing over the clamp.
Add the Final Touches
The finish point is a preference thing. Note where you want your tape to end, wrap two or three turns beyond this spot, then mark the finish point in the tape with scissors. Unwrap the tape, cut it at the marked angle, and re-wrap it so the cut end is at the bottom of the bar for a neat finish. Circle the end a couple times with electrical tape to secure it in place. Go back and tuck the overlap into the end of the bar and insert the end plug (tap it in place with a rubber mallet if you need to), and pull the brake hoods back down. You’re done!
When she’s not out riding her mountain bike, Jessica is an editor for Popular Mechanics. She was previously an editor for Bicycling magazine.
